Models strutted down the runway at Milan Fashion Week last week, showcasing a new line of open-toe leather sandals designed by Prada. Harish Kurade, an artisan from a village in southern Maharashtra, India, watched the event on his smartphone, feeling a mix of pride and concern. The sandals closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals, traditional footwear from his region, but Prada did not acknowledge their Indian origins. This oversight sparked outrage among local artisans and politicians.
Kurade expressed his mixed feelings, saying, “They [Prada] stole and replicated our crafty work, but we are really happy. Today, the world’s eyes are on our Kolhapuri chappals.” Kolhapur, a city in Maharashtra, is known for its rich history of sandal-making that dates back to the 12th century. The artisans in this region have been creating these iconic sandals for generations, with many families still involved in the craft.
After facing backlash, Prada issued a statement acknowledging that its new designs were inspired by traditional Indian footwear. However, this admission did little to quell the anger. Local sandal manufacturers met with Maharashtra’s Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis to voice their concerns. Dhananjay Mahadik, a local MP, supported the artisans and mentioned plans to file a lawsuit against Prada for cultural appropriation.
The controversy deepened when it was revealed that Prada’s sandals are priced at around $1,400 a pair, while authentic Kolhapuri sandals sell for about $12. This stark difference raised questions about financial exploitation and the lack of recognition for the original artisans.
Prada responded to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, emphasizing their commitment to cultural engagement and responsible design practices. They mentioned that the sandals are still in the early design stages and have not yet been produced for sale. Fashion entrepreneur Srihita Vanguri criticized Prada’s actions, stating that luxury brands often borrow from traditional crafts without giving proper credit until faced with backlash. She emphasized that Kolhapuri sandals represent the legacy of centuries of craftsmanship that should not be overlooked.
Kurade, who has been in the sandal-making business for over a century, shared his frustrations. He noted that the craft has suffered in recent years, partly due to changes in the market and rising costs of materials. Political issues surrounding cow protection laws have made it difficult for artisans to source quality hides, which are essential for making Kolhapuri sandals.
Despite the challenges, Kurade remains hopeful that the global attention could benefit local artisans. He believes that if they can make their sandals more affordable and accessible, people will appreciate the craftsmanship. He pointed out that while Prada may imitate the design, they cannot replicate the unique hand-woven patterns created by Dalit artisans in the region.
India has taken steps to protect Kolhapuri sandals under its Geographical Indications of Goods Act, which prevents unauthorized use of the term. However, this protection is limited to within India. Prada has previously faced criticism for cultural appropriation, and this incident adds to a growing list of luxury brands accused of similar practices.
Vanguri suggested that real respect would involve Prada collaborating with Kolhapuri artisans, giving them credit and a share of the profits. She believes that long-term partnerships with craft cooperatives could help support these communities and preserve their heritage.
As the debate continues, the artisans of Kolhapur hope that the attention brought by Prada will lead to greater recognition and support for their craft, ensuring that the legacy of Kolhapuri sandals endures for future generations.